Chocolate Cherry Birthday Cake for Calvin

Put the cherries in a glass jar and add enough cherry liqueur to cover. Cover and refrigerate for a couple of weeks before using.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line the bottom of a 9 x 3-inch springform pan with parchment or wax paper.

In a small saucepan, bring the butter to a full boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and let stand while preparing the rest of the batter.

Sift the flour and cocoa together three times. Return to the sifter and set aside.

In the bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer, whisk the eggs and sugar together by hand. Place over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stirring constantly with the whisk (no need to beat air into the eggs at this point), heat the egg mixture until it is hot to the touch and the sugar is dissolved.

Remove from the heat, attach to the mixer and fit with the whisk beater. Beat on high speed until the egg mixture triples in volume and resembles softly whipped cream, about 3 minutes. Skim the foam from the top of the butter. Reheat the butter just until it is hot (it must be hot). Pour the butter into a glass measuring cup, leaving the bits of milk solids behind in the pan. You should have 1/4 cup melted clarified butter. Pour into a medium bowl and add the vanilla.

Sift about one-third of the flour mixture over the whipped eggs. Using a large rubber spatula, fold together, quickly but gently, until nearly combined. Sift in half of the remaining flour mixture and fold again. Repeat with the remaining flour. Scoop about 1 cup of the batter into the hot butter and fold together until well blended. Pour the butter mixture into the batter and fold it in, being sure it is completely incorporated. Pour into the prepared pan and smooth the top.

Bake until the cake shrinks slightly from the sides of the pan and the top of the cake springs back when pressed in the center with your fingers, 25 to 30 minutes.

Transfer to a wire cooling rack. Let stand in the pan until completely cooled. Run a thin knife around the inside of the pan to release the cake. Invert onto the cooling rack and remove the pan bottom and paper.

At least 6 hours before frosting the cake, heat the cream in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat until it forms bubbles around the edges. Place the chocolate in a large bowl and pour the cream over it. Let stand until the chocolate is completely melted, about 15 minutes. Stir with a rubber spatula, scraping the sides of the bowl often, until the mixture is smooth and evenly colored. Cool completely. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled and thick, at least 6 hours.

In a small saucepan, heat the cream over medium-high heat until it comes to a boil - watch carefully to avoid boiling over. Place the chocolate in a medium bowl and pour the cream over it.

Let stand for a few minutes to soften the chocolate, then stir gently until completely smooth and melted. Do not whisk or beat the glaze, or you will make bubbles that will show up in the glazed cake. Cool until the glaze is thick and spreadable, about 30 minutes, depending on the kitchen temperature.

Drain the cherries reserving the liqueur.

Using a serrated knife, trim the cake so that the top is flat. Cut the cake horizontally into three equal layers. Place the bottom layer in a 9 x 3-inch springform pan. Brush the cake with about 1/4 cup liqueur. Distribute half of the cherries over the cake layer, leaving space between cherries.

Using a hand-held electric mixer on medium speed, whip the thickened ganache until it is light in texture and spreadable. Use immediately, as the ganache will firm upon standing. Dollop about half of the ganache over the berries. Using an offset metal spatula, spread the ganache evenly over the cherries, pressing the ganache gently so it surrounds the cherries and adheres to the cake.

Brush the center cake layer with about 2 tablespoons of the remaining liqueur. Place in the pan, moist side down and press gently. Brush the top of the layer with another 2 tablespoons of liqueur. Distribute the remaining cherries over the cake, then spread with the remaining ganache.

Brush the top cake layer with about 2 tablespoons liqueur. Place in the pan, moist side down and press gently. Brush the top of the cake with 2 tablespoons liqueur. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour before glazing.

Run a thin knife around the inside of the pan and remove the sides. Using an offset metal spatula, spread enough of the thickened glaze in a very thin layer over the cake to smooth the surface and cover any cracks or uneven areas. Transfer the cake, on the pan bottom, to a wire cooling rack set over a jelly-roll pan.

Place the remaining glaze (still in its small pot) in a skillet of very hot water. Stir and warm the glaze just until it reaches 90 degrees. Pour the warm glaze over the top of the cake. Using a few strokes of the cleaned spatula, spread the glaze evenly over the cake so it flows down the sides. Use the tip of the spatula and the glaze on the jelly-roll pan to patch any unglazed spots. Refrigerate until the glaze sets.

Remove the cake from the refrigerator about 1 hour before serving. Slice with a thin, sharp knife. Warm the blade between slices by dipping it in hot water.